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The Little White House That Was

23/11/2014

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Appropriately enough, it was my first Spanish boyfriend who made me aware of ‘La Casita Blanca.’ Not that we ever (more’s the pity) patronised the city’s infamous rent-by-the-hour ‘love hotel’, but his apartment was situated directly behind it.  This was when Plaça Lesseps was a ‘square’ in name only, pre its award winning ‘reorganisation’ (as they call it here) when streets were widened and apartment blocks pulled down to replaced by, amongst other things, this fantastic public library. The Little White House was sacrificed in the name of urbanism.

There must have other hotels in Barcelona at the time where illicit lovers and thrill-seeking parejas could have gotten their rocks off (there certainly are quite a few today), but La Casita Blanca had slunk its way into urban folklore. When it closed in 2011, it had been operating for over 100 years, first as street level seafood restaurant with rooms to rent on the first floor where patrons, high on wine and lobster, could take a postprandial ‘siesta’. Pretty soon the napping became more popular that the snacking, and the entire building was taken over and turned into a meublé.

It was never white – in fact it was a rather ugly brown pile; bland, severe and lacking any of the adornment that graced the other fin de siècle buildings in the immediate area. The name came from the constant rotation of white sheets that could be seen at any given moment flapping from the clotheslines on the rooftop, as staff hurriedly prepared the beds below for the next guests.

It is said that unlike other love hotels used by hookers and sailors, La Casita Blanca’s clientele was the crème of Barcelona’s society. Apparently the owners had ingeniously reorganised the interior halls so as you would never set eyes on other guests, and the underground car park was remodelled so that cars could slip in and out with the utmost discretion. The luxurious rooms were ‘themed’ exotically– African, Oriental and the like and there were three buttons in each one; red to call a waiter, green for when you were ready to check out and yellow if you wished to order a taxi.

The plot where La Casita Blanca once stood is now a children’s playground. As part of the project, local street artists Sendys and Kram have painted these beguiling murals in homage to it. The Little White House is gone, but romance lives on.

*Big thanks to Yoya Busquets for the snaps! 

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Barcelona’s Ethnic Banquet 

16/11/2014

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In 1992, when I first arrived Barcelona, I couldn’t buy an avocado. Or a mango or a bunch of fresh coriander. Tapas hadn’t been ‘reinvented’ yet, and Ferran Adriá was probably still a short order cook. The only ‘ethnic’ food you could get was dumbed-down Chinese, where you could try curious (not in a good way) things such as pan chino - a lumpy blob of tasteless friend dough.

Today there are 132,000 non-EU immigrants living in Barcelona. They have come from as far as Senegal and Syria, crossed the Sahara by bus or arrived on a long haul flight at El Prat. Wherever they have come from, others have followed. Their reasons why are diverse, but there is one thing all have in common; they want a taste of home.

Because of them, local cuisine has evolved enormously over the past decades. Sure, Adriá and his protégées have made their mark, but show me one 12-course tasting menu that doesn’t include ceviche or sushi. It’s been a happy marriage; Barcelona huge influx of migrants has created a market for budget, family run places whilst young chefs, take note of the spice, flavour and techniques of foreign lands,  experiment with them and wake up local taste buds.


Here are a few of my favourite ‘ethnic’ eateries in Barcelona. You’ll always get change from a 20 (sometimes even tenner).

*all images by Dexter Hodges 

Abissinia
Ethiopian cuisine is considered by many to be the best in Africa. After spending time in West Africa, I hasten to disagree, but that shouldn’t stop you from trying this wonderful place in Grácia. The menu is dead easy to navigate – all dishes are based upon injera, tasty flat bread made of teff flour, which comes to you in a bin-lid sized portion. The injera is topped with a selection of wat; stewed and somewhat picante minced meat, succulent spiced chicken or vegetables such as pumpkin, potatoes or spinach. You eat seated on low carved stools and with your hands, and end the meal with a rich dark coffee brewed at your table on a tiny coal stove.
C/Torrent de les Flors 55, Gràcia, 93 213 0785


El Cuiner de Damasc
On long boozy Barcelona nights, the kebab has become a staple munchie. But have you ever seen those pink, slimy slabs of meat delivered during the day? El Cuiner de Damasc is the real deal; run by a smiley Syrian who buys his lamb from the market, gently spices it with cinnamon before spit roasting and arranging into the most exquisite ‘kebabs’. Homemade hummus, falafel and a few cakes is all else that’s on offer in this charming corner outpost with inherited Andaluz appeal.  
C/ Palau 1, Barri Gótic 

Randa 
Despite being one of the largest migrant groups, Moroccan restaurants in Barcelona are not as common as you would think. Most are located in the Raval. Randa is situated opposite the Moroccan embassy in the Eixample, and was presumably started to nourish people after a morning’s gruelling battle with bureaucracy. Dishes are just what you’d expect in portions large enough for two: chicken and green olive tangine (my favourite), vegetable cous cous and B’sarra – a nourishing ‘breakfast’ soup of split peas. 
C/ Diputació 49, Eixample. 
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Peimong
Before Lima was declared the new food capital of the world and this restaurant in Barcelona made pisco sours and cerviche newly fashionable, this humble little place behind the lofty of facades of the ajuntament was introducing locals to coriander, tamales and Inca beer. After all these years, I find nothing more healing than a sudado de pescado (spicy fish soup) the morning after. 
C/ Templars 6,93 318 2873

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    Suzanne Wales is a widely published writer on design and creativity. Here are her musings (hopefully amusing) on things that rock her world. 

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